Thursday, August 28, 2008

Notes from the Erbil Street Shops

Tuesday, 8/19/2008
It is 2 am. I looked outside my window at the rolling brown hills devoid of any sign of human life besides the lights of the security station in the distance. This isolation can be at times liberating, and at times very very lonely. I had a good time today shopping in the streets and mingling with the locals. When I consciously think about it, I still find it hard to believe I am here in Iraq of all places, but on the other hand, I can already feel myself getting used to the sights and scenes just 5 days in. Scary how quickly things become familiar, how quickly we can adapt to new surroundings and ways of life. 


At the market, I went around pointing to products and asking “Ave chandi ya (How much is this)?" over an over again until the phrase was permanently fixed in my brain. My favorite stops were the fabric stores, where you get to pick out fancy, glittery fabrics that get made into traditional Kurdish dress. 





I was thinking it would be cool to save up for one of those- totally useless! But cool. I still feel very awkward about the way men stare out here. We (women) were advised not to smile at the men or make too much eye contact, but where are you supposed to avert your eyes when they are everywhere, staring back at you? 


Crossing streets in Erbil is akin to a near-death experience. You're supposed to just step out into oncoming traffic like you own the streets and put out your hand as a way of commanding them to stop for you. 



I sweated a bucketload today. It is lucky that our rooms are AC'd, but once we go out on the open road and into the city to shop or whatever, there is no more protection from the heat except in the occasional store. The larger more modern shopping spaces like Naza Mall are powered by AC, but when you're just shopping in the street shops or bazaar or even just riding in the van to get there, you're inevitably going to sweat profusely down to your underwear.


2 comments:

Jess said...

When we went to Toronto last year I would walk out into the street with all the arrogance in the world, hold my head high with my palm out, and say, "Stop! I'm an American!"

It was kinda fun, hee. I think you should take it up. Just pretend you're one of those girls we went to college with, who thought the sun shone out their poopers. You know the type.

As for sweat: just make sure you rehydrate!

I miss you Angie! Take care! I love reading your stories! Avert your eyes! Etc!

T.C. Ceder said...

Wow, Angie, sounds like an adventure daily. I bet you're really good at it, though, being yourself and asking everyone anything you can pronounce. You should get some Kurdish wear, though I can see how impractical it may be for casual living. I'm loving to read about it, so keep it up. And whenever you feel lonely, remember that we're all back here missing you too. Enjoy the fun, talk to you in a more fluid and deep manner soon!